Audemars Piguet’s Établisseurs Galets takes its inspiration from the landscape of the Vallée de Joux, especially the pebbles shaped by the Lac de Joux. This influence is clear in both the design and construction: the watch features an oval natural-stone dial without hour markers and a bracelet made of irregular, stone-set links joined by gold ball joints, echoing the way stones move in water. The nod to the 1972 Arabella model adds a sense of history, while the in-house Calibre 3098, shaped to fit the curved case and finished with hand-grained bridges, highlights the brand’s watchmaking skill. Each watch is put together by a single watchmaker, emphasising its unique, handcrafted quality.
Vacheron Constantin’s new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin stands out for treating thinness as a technical discipline. At its heart beats the Calibre 2550 – developed over seven years to achieve a 2.4 mm profile while maintaining an 80-hour power reserve. A distinctive balance in this category. The movement’s architecture is key: a platinum micro-rotor integrated into the mainplate, a suspended double barrel stacked to optimise space and torque stability and a single-level gear train that rethinks traditional layout for efficiency. Housed in a 39.5 mm platinum case, the timepiece pairs technical restraint with a salmon-lacquered dial rooted in the Maison’s heritage. At 7.35 mm thick, it becomes the slimmest Overseas to date.
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A jewel that tells the time was always part of Chopard’s expertise. This is what makes pieces combining watchmaking expertise with Haute Joaillerie excellence special. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, the maison has presented the L'Heure du Diamant collection, statement pieces that epitomise the duality between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie. The highlight is the cushion-shaped model paired with a new fluted gold link bracelet and a matching dial inspired by a 1960s family design, powered by the Chopard 09.01C selfwinding movement. It is enhanced by a diamond bezel adorned with pear-shaped diamonds
Patek Philippe refreshes its World Time with a warmer and stronger expression in the new Reference 7129J-001. What makes it appealing is the contrast between the fully polished 36 mm yellow-gold case and red-lacquered dial. A daring colour that gives the timepiece a special appeal. At the centre, hand-executed guilloché in a basket-weave pattern adds texture without distracting from the display. The city disk and 24-hour ring preserve the clarity that has long defined the model, while the day-and-night indication remains one of its most elegant functional details. Inside, the ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 HU, with its mini-rotor, keeps the watch refined on the wrist while maintaining the technical sophistication that made the World Time a Patek Philippe signature.
At this year’s Watches and Wonders, Hermès introduced the H08, a watch that showcases the art of skeletonisation. It features the new H1978 calibre, which is designed to be both visually striking and high-performing. The openworked dial uses carefully arranged bridges and components to keep the display clear while showing off the movement inside. The 39 mm satin-brushed titanium case gives the watch a modern and a lightweight feel. Blue Super-LumiNova hour markers stand out against the exposed mechanics, making the watch easy to read. With its textured rubber strap, the H08 Squelette combines transparency and practicality, offering a fresh and well-crafted approach to skeleton watch design.
With the Monaco Evergraph, TAG Heuer shifts from evolution to genuine reengineering of the chronograph itself. At its heart is the new Calibre TH80-00, built around a compliant mechanism that replaces traditional levers and springs with flexible components. This fundamentally changes the way the chronograph operates, delivering more consistent actuation and long-term stability while improving durability and precision. The movement is paired with a high-frequency 5 Hz oscillator, COSC certification and a 70-hour power reserve. Visually, this is reinforced by the openworked, inverted architecture, where key components are brought to the dial side. The redesigned 40 mm titanium case follows the original Monaco codes but introduces stronger ergonomics and a more architectural presence. Altogether, the Evergraph feels less like a reinterpretation and more like a statement on how far the chronograph can be pushed today.
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