Watches and Wonders 2026: Day One’s Showstoppers, Decoded

The 2026 edition of Watches and Wonders salon in Geneva brings together 65 brands to reveal the best in time
Watches and Wonders 2026 Day Ones Showstoppers Decoded
Pierre Albouy
Octo Finissimo 37mm in 18carat yellow gold Bvlgari

Octo Finissimo 37mm in 18-carat yellow gold Bvlgari

First introduced in 2014, the Octo Finissimo embodies Bvlgari’s Italian heritage through its distinctive geometric case, inspired by the arches of the Pantheon in Rome. The new Octo Finissimo 37 reinterprets the collection’s signature design language with refined proportions. To achieve this, Bvlgari developed a new in-house movement. A self-winding calibre BVF 100 with micro-rotor measuring just 2.35 mm in height and 31 mm in diameter. Offering a 72-hour power reserve – three full days – it ensures both precise performance and enhanced practicality for everyday wear. This model is crafted in 18-carat yellow gold, a material deeply rooted in the heritage of the Roman jeweller. The Octo Finissimo remains undeniably a forward-looking and forward-thinking true icon of contemporary horology.

Panthère Mtiers d'Art Tortue Watch Cartier

Panthère Métiers d'Art Tortue Watch Cartier

One of Cartier’s most iconic shaped watches, the Cartier Tortue, was first conceived in 1912. Revisited in 2024 through Cartier Privé, its audacious silhouette returns, elevated by the Maison des Métiers d’Art’s craftsmanship. At its centre, the Panther gazes mysteriously from behind a curtain of rain. The masterful use of champlevé enamel creates a motif on two levels, playing with depth between the feline and the rain curtain. To make the drops, craftsmen created tiny cavities where they placed translucent enamel powder and gold or silver flakes. The slightly domed enamel of the drops contrasts with the Panther motif. Over 15 different tones were used in each piece, requiring more than 36 firings. It took 80 hours to enamel the dial and 50 hours to enamel the case. Three hours were spent setting the eyes. This masterpiece was produced in two limited editions of 100 pieces each.

Spirit of Big Bang Impact Sapphire Jewellery Hublot

Spirit of Big Bang Impact Sapphire Jewellery Hublot

The Spirit of Big Bang Impact by Hublot celebrates innovation through technical mastery. Rooted in the idea that “energy comes from the design,” the watch evolves the original Impact concept into a dynamic architectural expression. At its core is a “puzzle of pieces” where metallic elements interact with osmium, one of the rarest metals on Earth that Hublot has exclusively introduced in 2024. “When osmium is crystallised, it becomes sparkly, so when you mix with metallic parts, you obtain that kind of creative jewellery.” This interplay delivers a layered, almost explosive visual effect. The name “Impact” fits a timepiece that feels like a controlled burst of energy on the wrist. Diamonds set directly into sapphire further elevate the piece, showcasing exceptional precision. Altogether, the new timepiece embodies Hublot’s Art of Fusion, blending rare materials with cutting-edge watchmaking.

J12 28 mm Diamonds Chanel

J12 28 mm Diamonds Chanel

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026, the CHANEL J12 28mm Diamonds pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite gemstone. Part of the iconic J12 line first introduced in 1999 and designed by Jacques Helleu, it reflects the maison’s signature fusion of watchmaking innovation and jewellery artistry. Dressed in baguette-cut diamonds creates a continuous surface of light and feels like a jewel on the wrist. Crafted in scratch-resistant ceramic, it stands out with the craftsmanship of the manufacturer’s artisans: 215 hours of work were required to complete the piece.

Joia de Baume amp Mercier M0A10850

Joia de Baume & Mercier M0A10850

Celebrating moments has always been part of Baume & Mercier’s DNA. This year, the maison presents the new Joia de Baume & Mercier. A jewellery watch specially dedicated to women presented in 28mm. Inspired by an historical piece dating from the 1980s, featuring criss-crossed satin-brushed finishes that echo its steel flattened-link strap and its bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds. Embodying confident femininity, it reflects freedom, movement and timeless craftsmanship rooted in Baume & Mercier’s legacy since 1830. The Joia watch merges jewellery and time into a single expressive, contemporary statement of grace and individuality. It celebrates a modern woman who moves effortlessly between casual boldness and refined elegance as she expresses her identity. Limited production ensures rarity, desirability, and lasting collector appeal. Worldwide recognition has been achieved.

Sixtie High Jewellery cuff watch Piaget

Sixtie High Jewellery cuff watch Piaget

A striking interpretation of the iconic 1970s cuff watch takes centre stage at Piaget, where jewellery and timekeeping enter into perfect dialogue. The Sixtie High Jewellery cuff watch is elevated through opal—one of Yves Piaget’s favourite stones. With its shifting hues, the opal radiates within the softly contoured trapezoid form of the Sixtie. Its playful asymmetry is enhanced by hand-engraved detailing in Piaget’s signature Décor Palace, transforming the piece into a luminous expression of heritage and contemporary high jewellery design