Asian nail art originating from Japan and Korea in the East, to Pakistan in the South is as versatile as it is wide ranging. Whether you’re drawn to layered designs, like the shimmering cat eye manicure, intricate bridal sets or multi-coloured criss-cross patterns the well of ideas is vast and ever-flowing.
Enter the Japanese manicure. While the composition of Japanese gel, in particular, often allows for a range of ornate and whimsical designs, they’re not the rule. In fact, you can incorporate both pared-back detail and delightfully outlandish sketches into just one set. Before discovering this myself, I’d often ask for long, glittery acrylic talons. Although they lasted at least four weeks, I knew that this method was unhealthy, not just for my nails, but even for the respiratory health of all involved. So, I sought out a healthier alternative that could still deliver all of the drama and glamour that I was after.
This is how I stumbled across a manicurist who has since created some of my favourite manicures of all time. Hailing from Kanagawa, Japan, Saki Tabata has built up a select, loyal roster of West London clients. “Many of my customers are Japanese Londoners, but I’m also visited by those local to my nail salon the mixture is lovely,” she shares with British Vogue. To that end, here’s everything you need to know about the coveted Japanese manicure.
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The popular manicure style has become a cultural signifier of Japanese beauty trends. Distinct in appearance, their designs usually have a milky-toned base and soft, rounded edges. For those who prefer something simpler, glossy nails are also a very trendy option and are created using a wax paste.
“I’ve also noticed a crossover in the manicures that are popular in Australia, I saw so many cute 3D designs when I lived there,” Tabata adds. Which is perhaps a testament to their geographical proximity. These often feature a slight Western twist and are a reflection of the wonderfully extravagant manicures that grab your attention on social media.
This depends on the nail design in question. If you’re looking for multi-coloured mismatched nails, then you can opt for a super short and rounded shape. These are often applied without nail extensions, to off set all of the complicated detail, gems and accessories.
“Recently, the square shape is also more popular than ever,” shares Tabata. “Although, this is often reserved for more elegant and pared-down styles” (such as princess nails and rosewater nails a style from Korea). The shape of your nails really do matter and can dictate whether your manicure looks just right or a little off-kilter. Tabata likens this to a classic French tip – there’s room to play around with the design but many prefer to stick to the chic basics.
Bespoke 3D nail elements are typically crafted using Nail Town Icing Gel a product available to purchase in Japan. Small pieces of rubbery paste are rolled into balls which are then fashioned into the desired shape. Cats, strawberries and pumpkins are all very highly requested. “There are a range of pliable materials that you can use to create 3D nails,” Tabata explains. “In the past, we only had acrylic at our disposal which requires an entirely different set of skills.” Icing gel is easier and faster for manicurists to use.
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“In Japan, we care deeply for our natural nails but still use acrylic materials as a treat for a super fun and exaggerated look,” Tabata adds. “If you decide to opt for acrylic nails, you have to be so gentle and experienced when it comes to the removal if your manicurist is too harsh with their movements, the nails underneath can get damaged and become brittle in the long run.”
As for the polish, Tabata swears by NYCOGEL, a range available in Japan organised by matching colour lineups.
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As the season of hygge and apple bobbing draws near, Tabata’s clients are reaching for cosy, muted autumnal colours. “During the transitional season, I see an uptick in single flower designs,” she shares. “In the spring, pastel floral patterns were trendy, now my clients reach for dustier colours – think, browns, darker oranges and yellows.” In terms of bespoke designs, polka dots will continue to reign supreme, along with variations of animal prints and darker glassy layered cat eye inspired polishes.
Article originally published on British Vogue.
