The conversation around ageing in beauty has always been ‘skin’ centric. Wrinkles, fine lines, sagging — these are the markers we’ve been taught to look out for and treat. When it comes to hair ageing, however, the narrative feels less defined and is often overlooked, with only factors like greying or hair fall raising alarms. Unfortunately, the signs of hair ageing are quieter, but no less deserving of attention. We asked the experts to dive into what hair ageing looks like today, the signs to look out for, and whether it can be slowed down.
As Maria Dowling, founder of Maria Dowling Salon Dubai, notes, hair ageing is less about a single visible shift and more about a gradual decline in the hair’s overall quality. Although many think it centres around becoming grey, the reality is that the hair undergoes a complete transformation in texture, density, and vitality.
“Ageing is reflected by changes in the hair fibre, follicle, and the scalp environment,” she explains. “As we age, the hair growth cycle shortens, follicles can shrink, and the production of natural oils slows down — meaning the hair feels finer, more fragile, less luminous, and often more difficult to manage.”
Breaking it down further, London-based consultant dermatologist Dr Mary Sommerlad says hair greys as pigment-producing cells in the follicle gradually decline, their function compromised over time, thanks to cumulative oxidative stress from factors like everyday metabolism, UV, and pollution. At the same time, a drop in sebum and lipids leaves the fibre drier, duller, and less reflective. As the growth cycle shortens, the anagen phase contracts, and follicles begin to miniaturise, producing finer, shorter strands. Density also reduces because some follicles become dormant or are lost entirely.
“Unlike skin, where collagen and elastin loss dominate the narrative, hair ageing revolves around follicular biology, hormonal shifts, and cumulative environmental damage to the fibre,” she says.
Greying, according to Dr Kiran Sethi, medical director and founder, ISYA Aesthetics, is one of the earliest and most visible signs of hair ageing. “This results from a progressive decline in melanogenesis within the hair follicle pigmentary unit,” she explains. “This begins with a gradual reduction in melanin production and eventual death of hair bulb melanocytes. The process is driven primarily by oxidative stress.”
One of the earliest signs is a subtle change in how your hair feels — drier, coarser, and less supple. Dowling adds that such hair doesn’t hold style very well, or it feels drier despite using the same product you’ve always used. Additionally, the decline in sebum and lipid content leaves the fibre less conditioned, often resulting in increased frizz, reduced manageability, and dull and less reflective hair.
“Structural changes such as reduced hair diameter, diminished tensile strength, and a loss of lustre, leave the fibre drier, more brittle, and noticeably less resilient with age,” Dr Sethi states.
“Ponytail volume may feel thinner, or the central or side partings appear wider. There may be more scalp visibility at the crown or temples,” notes Dr Sommerlad. All of these point to a gradual reduction in hair density, as some follicles become less active or dormant.
Women often experience diffuse hair thinning, particularly around menopause, as hormonal shifts begin to influence follicular behaviour.
Unfortunately, hair becomes more prone to breakage as it ages, especially around the hairline, indicating reduced resilience. “Many of my clients mention that their hair feels ‘different’ — that intuitive shift is often the first indicator,” she says.
Hair thinning and hair loss are often driven by various, overlapping factors, with follicular miniaturisation at its core. “The progressive reduction in hair follicle size leads to production of thinner, shorter hairs,” explains Dr Sethi. “Hair density decreases with age, particularly beginning in the 40s. This reflects both androgenetic alopecia (pattern hair loss) and senescent alopecia (ageing-related).”
Lastly, hair may feel like it’s no longer growing as long as it once did. A shortened hair growth phase (anagen) means strands shed sooner, making it harder to achieve length.
The rule of thumb in hair care is simple — healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp. It’s a living tissue, and when compromised by inflammation, buildup, poor circulation, or folliculitis, it disrupts the follicular microenvironment and can shorten the phase.
“The ageing scalp dermis shows structural changes, including altered collagen organisation, changes in the dermal boundary, and modified expression of key proteins that may disrupt hair follicle function. Essentially, a weaker or damaged scalp will cause weaker and/or less hair,” Dr Sethi warns.
Scalp health directly impacts how your hair looks and grows. When oxidative stress builds up, it disrupts how hair forms within the follicle, while a compromised barrier can weaken anchorage, which means more shedding and strands that feel instantly more fragile. Add in common scalp concerns like dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or even just natural ageing, and the effect is amplified.
Opt for ingredients like niacinamide, caffeine, piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, and panthenol, which help reduce shedding by calming inflammation, balancing the scalp, and strengthening the barrier, creating a healthier environment for growth. Gentle exfoliation and detoxification are equally important for removing buildup and supporting a healthy follicular environment.
“Hydrating is also key — look for ingredients that replenish moisture without weighing the hair down. Protein treatments can help rebuild strength, but they must be balanced carefully to avoid brittleness,” says Dowling. Think of gentle formulas that don’t strip the hair.
“Minoxidil remains the only FDA-approved topical treatment for pattern hair loss, requiring long-term application (typically, 2-5 per cent solution),” advises Dr Sethi. “Combination approaches pairing minoxidil with antioxidants like tocopherol acetate (vitamin E) may enhance efficacy by addressing both hair follicle stimulation and oxidative stress.”
She also mentions natural ingredients with emerging evidence — rosemary oil, pumpkin seed oil, saw palmetto, and caffeine show emerging benefits for density. At the same time, fermented extracts help rebalance the scalp and reduce damage.
Omega-3 and 6 fatty acids with antioxidants can support thickness over time, while vitamin D, iron, and zinc can help only if deficient — be warned, over-supplementing can backfire and trigger hair loss. “Shocking news: guidelines say to avoid biotin supplementation unless truly deficient,” warns Dr Sethi. “The most significant mistakes in managing ageing hair include excessive supplementation without documented deficiency, reactive rather than preventive approaches, neglecting scalp health, and using harsh hair care practices.
“Ageing hair isn’t something to fight. It’s something to understand and care for with a more refined, considered approach,” says Dowling. “It’s important to remember that as you age, the needs of your hair evolve, so your routine must evolve too.”
